AVAD Mein Ek Khubsurat Shaam

A beautiful evening in Avad... Lucknow

 
Has it ever happened that it has been difficult to spare time to visit a place of interest we have lived nearest to? This happened with me when I was studying architecture in Lucknow.... The Imambaras, and a multitude of other monuments were the names added to my "to do" list. As time flew and years passed by some of these places have been visited while some still remain in the to do list.

A chance to go back into history came almost 23 years later, last Friday in the form of some work. I made sure I was carrying the Digi a set of spare rechargeables, just in case I am able to steal some time to visit some of the places in my wish list. I asked my brother in law if he was willing to accompany me. He was ready in a jiffy.

I had tickets booked on the 2230-A AC Special Lucknow Mail. The scheduled departure from New Delhi Railway Station was at 11:30 pm. I had reached New Delhi Station at around 10:30 pm My brother in law was to join me about half an hour later. So I went to the nearby cafe and busied my self with a coffee as I waited for him.

Our train left New Delhi at midnight. We promptly dozed off as soon as the TTE had checked our tickets. When we reached Lucknow at 8:30 am (7:15 am scheduled arrival)it was raining cats an dogs. As if by a miracle, the showers turned to a drizzle as we stepped out of Charbagh Railway station (Lucknow Jn). Quickly, we made our way to Bengali Hotel on the road to Aminabad. We chose this hotel not because we are Bengalis but because it was the same hotel I had checked in for the first time in Lucknow during the Architecture JEE 28 years ago. And I wanted to relive old memories. Nothing much had changed in the hotel or rooms except that the tariff had gone up three folds. We changed and freshened ourselves and after breakfast of bread toast with double egg omelet and a cup of special chai [tea] we were on an auto rikshaw making our way in pouring rain to Indira Bhawan.

Later in the day, when we were over with our work it was still raining, a proper sight seeing was out of the question. But, since our return train was not before 11:30 pm. and we still had a few hours in between, we decided to spend some time within the Indira Bhawan premises for the showers lessened. We had tasty Chenna Kheer and rasgullas at the Parag Booth set up within the complex.

Some minutes later with no signs of the shower abetting, we decided to brave it out to in the rains in a hired auto rikshaw for a ride around Lucknow. We easily found one willing to go around Lucknow at 50 bucks an hour. We hopped in and off we were on a Monsoon Sight Seeing in Avad. Soon, winding roads took us across monuments and new identities of Lucknow. One of them was the Scientific Convention Centre. The rain Gods however obliged not before we reached Bara Imambara. 

The Bara Imambara built in 1784 is said to have been a a part of the food for work program of Nawab Asaf Ud Daula to provide food to his people during a famine. According to legends, the Nawab ordered a construction which was demolished every evening. The construction continued for months, as a part of providing employment to the famine struck citizens of his state. In return, the people who toiled received food for their family. "We were at the Imambara..' announced the auto wallah. The imposing gates and the magnificent structures beckoned us.

   

Ignoring the bored looks of the auto wallah, we decided to venture into the Bhool Bhulayas, maze of labyrinth passages within a 20 feet wide wall of the huge 150 ft by 50ft by 45 ft hall whose roof did not have any beams.  Each of these narrow passages are said to have three arched entrances only one of which leads to the correct path. The rest either lead to a dead end or to a steep drop. There are 1024 such entrances. It is said only 2 out of 500 make it out of the maze without the help of a guide. The combined tickets for entry to the Bhoolbulaya and Baoli, is a mere 25 bucks per head for Indian adults and 15 bucks for children up to 12 years age (and Rs 300 for foreigners) the best thing here is that photography is free. :). It is advisable to hire a guide to show you around. There are different packages available. The complete package unofficially can cost about 210.00 where the guide shows you around the entire complex of the Imambara and the Maze and the baoli. At the end of the tour of Bhoobhulaya, he tests your skill in finding your way out by asking you to find your own way out (to the surprise of the Guide, We found our way out in less than 2 minutes.)

Within the complex is the Asfi mosque. Namaaz is offered there and the locals throng to the place on fridays. The second leg of the guided tour took us around the Baoli. The baoli has a well seven story deep. While 4 stories are below the water, the remaining three storys are can be seen. The baoli was used for bathing and has a direct connection to the river Gomti. Guards sitting around the baoli at a lower level than the pathway out side, without being seen from outside, could see clearly see reflections of movements on the path way in the waters of the baoli. Sadly the well is now in a dilapidated state with visitors using it to get rid of their empty bottles of Pepsi and mineral water.

By the time we were over with the guided tour, it was late evening. As I started to contemplate returning to our hotel for a few hours of well deserved rest, my brother in law sprung in a surprise. He announced we were invited for tea at a friends house in Aliganj. As we raced down the streets to Aliganj my thoughts raced down the memory lanes of the rented out house in Aliganj where I used to stay... my day in the college, my friends and other fond memories of Lucknavi Dawat of mithi roti and kebabs at a close friends in old Lucknow. 

Time flew by and soon it was time to return. After checking out at 10:45 as we slowly walked towards Charbagh Railway station... somewhere deep inside I could could hear K.L. Saigal render the agonising feelings of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah as he wrote "Babul mora naihar chooto jaye... Char Kahaar mil, mori doliya uthaye... mora apna begaana chuto jaye....."   "O My father! I'm leaving home. The four bearers lift my Palanquin I'm leaving those who were my own...."